Addicted to Danger

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View books by Jim Wickwire, Dorothy Bullitt.

ADDICTED TO DANGER IS ADDICTIVE... - Rated
This is an absorbing account of the mountaineering adventures of Jim Wickwire, one of the foremost American high altitude mountaineers. It is at times a moving memoir, and at other times somewhat sophomoric in its attempt to explain what drove him to climb, at great cost to his family.

The book is nicely illustrated with many photographs of his family, fellow mountaineers, and his beloved mountains. The photographs are well placed, as they go with the flow of the story. When you see those of his wife and children, however, it makes you wonder how he could ever be away from such a beautiful family for so long and miss so many family occasions. It is a testament to his wife's devotion that she and the children are still loving towards such an absentee figure.

The most interesting part of the book involves his mountaineering adventures. Whether writing about the death of a companion on the mountain or the victory of a successful summit ascent, it is told with much feeling. The single most moving chapter, however, is the one which describes the unfortunate death of fellow mountaineer, Chris Herrebrock, while he and Jim were on Peter's Glacier on Mt. McKinley. It is poignantly told, and one can sense the impact that this young man's death had on Jim Wickwire.

He also vividly recounts his summit of K2, second only to Everest in height, but infinitely more difficult to climb. He was one of the first two Americans to summit K2 and on his descent was forced to bivouac solo at 27,750 feet. He survived this bivouac sans water, stove, and supplemental oxygen, while lacking a sleeping bag and down parka. He credits the images of his wife and children for his survival that long, frigid, and lonely night. It was only his fierce desire to see them again that kept death at bay.

The chapters which discuss mountaineer Marty Hoey were intriguing because of the romantic feelings he had towards her, and she towards him. Jim was on a climbing expedition on Aconcagua where she was a fellow expeditioner, when the embers of a romantic relationship began, though it was never physically consummated. Of course, this budding romance came to an abrupt end when Marty died tragically on Mount Everest while, again, on expedition with Jim... Its inclusion in the book indicates a continuing insensitivity towards his wife which is unfortunate.

All in all, however, the book makes for a good read, though in the end one wonders if Jim Wickwire is really through with the mountains which so inveigled him throughout his life. One cannot help but wonder if there is yet another promise to his wife and family waiting to be broken.

No man is an island - Rated
Taking a humanistic approach to reviewing a major part of his life,Wickwire provides a lucid review whilst reflecting upon the development of his mountaineering career to date. Co-authored with Bullitt, the book is very well written, supported by interesting and valuable graphic displays, enjoyable and easy to read, using exceptionally large print fonts. This biographical account aims to provide a rather detailed ad hoc account of Wickwire's reflections upon the 'wild' side of being 'out there' throughout the process of seeking (and acquiring) the quest for sportsmanship. The book gives appropriate credits to the existing prototype mountaineering literature (e.g., Edmond Hilary and more recently Jon Krakauer or Sir Ranulph Fienes), but as far as the writing here is concerned somehow lacks the impact of others, and fails to capture much technical account of mountaineering styles and techniques. However, in comparison to some of the existing mountaineering literature, it certainly provides a passionate account of the inside world of professional Mountaineering and the conscience of a 'devoted' mountaineer repeatedly exposed to life-threatening (and life-taking) danger. Wickwire comes across as a representative of a minority lucky group which is relatively well-resourced and supported. Another gem of this book, was to learn that such an incredible amount of one's time and energy might be spent on such an action/adventure pursuit. However, such might only be revealed following a protracted period of reflection of any sort (whether in preparation for writing a book or not). How amazing !

Diane HUI Educational Psychology Research and Evaluation University of Missouri-St Louis, St Louis, Missouri.

True, gutsy story-telling of high altitude (mis)adventures. - Rated
As much an account of our human frailties as it is of our bravados, this is a great armchair read for those interested in the great outdoors and some of its top class adventurers of the last half century. Manageable in a single sitting, Wickwire & Bullitt recount one man's story of a 30+ yrs devotion to (part-time?) mountain climbing career which includes meetings with the World's major ranges and their recent climbers. This volume is true story-telling of high altitude adventures with a stunning cast, told in a lucid, accessible fashion with care and passion. Novel in the sense that the action is told biographically without too much technical detail, this book deals with exposure to the death of those dear in both a moving and inspiring way. A must read for budding and seasoned serial hikes/climbers, as much as for those wishing to share the passion without the risk of exposure to their own series of Annapurnas.

Gripping but overlong book by the worlds biggest ego - Rated
You just keep asking why this guy carried on climbing (and so does he) but without any answers. If he could have just contained the notion that he is the only guy on the planet for a bit it would have been a truly awesome book.

just okay. - Rated
Yes, I read the entire thing cover to cover, so it can't be all bad. I just didn't like Wickwire, his climbing style or his writing style.