Neither East Nor West

Neither East Nor West joins Honeymoon in Purdah by Alison Wearing and Persian Mirrors by Elaine Sciolino in its humane examination of Iran and its willingness to lay aside the received orthodoxies of other nations and listen with a receptive (if not always open) mind. Once again, Iranians reveal themselves to be a generous, literate and fun-loving people, and their nation far more complex, multi-layered and Westernised than news stories have revealed over the last three decades.

As a young child, Christiane Bird spent three years in the north-western town of Tabriz where her father served as a doctor for the Presbyterian ministry. She returned in 1998 to see the effects of the Islamic Revolution for herself. One of her first acts was to look for the infamous DEATH TO AMERICA sign which hung at the Laleh International Hotel.

Two hotel employees with grizzled cheeks gave me a half-flirtatious, half-interrogatory stare. Taking a deep breath, I asked them about the sign. "Gone! Gone!" they said, laughing as if I were asking about ancient history. "You are American?"

This could be the theme of Bird's travels, where everyone--from security police to government officials to men yelling "Welcome to Iran!" as they whiz by on their scooters--are practically ecstatic to meet an American. In the privacy of their homes they watch the Flintstones and CNN, listen to Michael Jackson and Metallica, drink alcohol and complain, mostly about the economy. In the end, Iranians start to seem not so unlike Americans in many ways--criticising their government while loving their country all the same.

The fact that Bird, like Sciolino and Wearing before her, is a woman makes her story even more interesting, as she looks behind the veil and finds both the power and the constrictions that it represents. Her biggest strength is in asking direct questions about such ticklish issues as women's rights but at times her heavy handedness is enough to make you squirm. Wearing, with her lovely sense of humour and openness, did a superb job befriending and capturing the people. Bird, on the other hand, seems to have no sense of humour and has an irritating habit of getting irritated. Nevertheless, she fills in the essential historical and political background omitted by Wearing. Together, the two paint a penetrating portrait of a rich and evocative land. --Lesley Reed

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Spot on introduction to Iran - Rated
I read a number of books prior to visiting Iran and found this the most helpful in giving a feel for what to expect in this most paradoxical of countries. The title is absolutely spot on and the angle of viewing the country from a female perspective, given that one of the most defining things about Iran is the place of women, is very aposite. Reading it will make you feel more comfortable about visiting and visiting will give you an amazing experience.

A magnificent journey - Rated
This travelogue or "safarnameh" is excellent, and it gives a great insight into life in Iran from many different perspectives. As an American and a Christian the author obviously has many preconceived ideas about the Islamic Republic, and as the book progresses these ideas are sometimes confirmed, but as often, preconceived ideas are based on fiction not fact! Her many discussions with different Iranians, whether they are Persians, Turkomans or whatever, show how culturally and spiritually different each region and each sect is in Iran.

The West constantly argues that the Islamic Republic should be more "democratic". However, this book shows that many many people like the Islamic government and what it stands for, and would rather be told how to live their lives by them than by the US government. The people that she meets during her travels must surely reflect the true spirit of the Iranian, that is a kind hearted, warm, friendly and over generous human being.

Recommendable to anyone interested in modern day Iran - Rated
This is a really interesting 'travel diary' that provides a very truthful and unbiased depiction of modern day Iran. It could well serve as a very useful travel guide for anyone interested. It is written in such a personal and beautiful way that you don't want Bird's journey to end.