Training for Climbing

View other editions of Training for Climbing.
View books by Eric J. Horst.
View books in the How to Climb Series.

Training for Climbing - Rated
This is an outstanding book about training for climbing. It covers a wide range of topics and all with a solid scientific basis. The writing style is extremely easy to read and entertaining to boot. I have to say I disagree with the reviewer who said there is too much focus on mental training. This is a small, but integral part of this book. This book looks at mental training, skills and strategy, strength training, personal programs, nutrition, recovery and injury prevention. It also includes training charts you can use, additional tips and a comprehensive glossary. All in all an excellent guide to training from a respected climber and climbing journalist. Highly recommended for beginner or more experienced climber alike.

The definitive guide to climbing specific training - Rated
Horst has produced an excellent source of information on all aspects of climbing specific training. Exercises, stretching, diet, recovery, planning and motivation are all described in detail. More importantly, the reasoning behind his recommendations is described which helps those of us with a more inquisitive mind to understand why following his advice is beneficial.

There is some content on motivation/mental training which may or may or not suit invididual people. Personally I read through this only once, but returned again and again to review the chapters on planning, recovery, diet and of course the specific training exercises.

The proof of the pudding is in the eating, and the hard facts are that since buying and reading this book, both my trad and sport climbing standards have increased by five grades.

Bit too much motivation jargon - Rated
I'll have to admit up front that motivational books don't tend to work for me, so perhaps I'm not best placed to judge this work. I bought it with the hope it would include specific exercises and techniques to improve my climbing - and it does certainly include this. It also includes a lot of what I saw as filler - spurious wavy line diagrams depicting 'motivation curve' and the like, plus a lot of what could be considered stating the bloody obvious: such as you need to motivate yourself to exercise. Whatever its fallings, its not a bad book, but a lot of what it says you don't need a book to know - just go to your local climbing wall and work it out yourself.

Thinking man's training bible - Rated
I recently hit a plateau with my climbing performance, and was determined to sort it out. So I bought this book (amongst others).

From the beginning everything I've done has worked to perfection. The first chapters helped me determine what my problems were and to focus on identifying and solving them; the next taught me how the training works, what the body needs to do and WHY.

It doesn't just cover the science either - it contains practical advice on stretching techniques, a huge variety of training techniques and exercises for all abilities, advice on nutrition, injury prevention, training programmes and more.

The emphasis isn't on just providing you with the answers though - it teaches you how to organise your own time to suit your needs of the moment (e.g. power, strength, technique). In this way you learn much more, and always feel in control; this neatly avoids the chore-like routine of an imposed training regimen.

The text itself is written in a highly entertaining and readable style that engages the interest of the reader; this is very important as you'll be coming back to this book again and again and again. The author has managed to tailor the book to be both an inspiring first, second and third read, but also to be an invaluable reference guide.

My advice is to buy it.