Excellent read - Rated 
I read this while living and working in California for 3 years, it's was fun trying to work out where some of the "secret spots" were, and his depiction of Santa Cruz and the mixed bag of characters who reside there was fantastic. I know I surfed with a few of his characters while exploring the point breaks and reefs around SC. A great read for non surfers and surfers alike, gives you some insight into what drives us into the freezing water in November, braving the shark infested breaks all year round and luxuriating in the stoke of a dawn patrol or suset session on the most beatiful costline in the world. If this dosen't make you want to take a trip to the home of modern surfing then nothing will.
this is how it feels.... - Rated
I bought this book based on other reviews and really enjoyed it as the author does manage to convey much of what if feels and what drives you to surf. It's not outstanding literature but it is a good read and probably one to pass to your girlfriend/boyfriend to give them some understanding of why you do what you do, although be prepared for them to dump you afterwards!
A fantastic book - Rated 
This book is well worth owning. It is amusing, self-depreciating, and extremely well written avoiding most of the cliches and painting a beautiful picture of the Californian coast. The best surf autobiography I have read since "Walking on water" by Andy Martin
Great mix of wildlife, wild Calfornia and surf philosophy - Rated
I am a non-surfer but was totally absorbed by Duane's writing. In contrast to much sports writing, the great achievements are a subtext - it sounds cliché, but what underpins the book is Duane's choice to make a total change of lifestyle to achieve a dream and live more truly. Duane writes with a sensitive awareness of self and the environment that surrounds him. Sufficiently mature to be aware of when in a moment of anger he had become that which he hated and apologise for it, balanced by enough childlike humour to describe an otter 'backstroking' past him. His observation of the Californian coast is eagle eyed, from the mustard flowers and worn Cyprus trees to the seals, otters, birds and big cats that inhabit the world he shares. And then there's the surfing...! All in all a great book, if you liked El Capitan you will find this similar but much more fluid.
A supreme surfing and natuarl history odyssey - Rated
Daniel Duane has captured what is undoubtedly the feelings of new and not so new surfers the world over. This is an honest account of what happens to you after you've ridden your first wave. That is that your life will never be the same again. And Duane comes as close to explaining why as anyone since Jerry Lopez. It has nothing to do with ability and everything to do with how surfing makes you feel and understand your place in the world. It has nothing to do with competing with others and everything to do with competing with yourself. This book has soul and it has it because its straightforward honesty allows you to escape into another dimension. It won't tell you how to perform a cutback or a floater but it will give you an insight into why, when you attempt a cutback or a floater you come closer to understanding yourself than ever before. Buy this book if you like surfing, the ocean, nature or you just love well written voyages of discovery.
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